All Aboard Hungary: A Local's Guide to Train Travel
Sziasztok, fellow adventurers! As a Budapest local, my favorite way to explore Hungary is often by train. It’s about the journey, the changing landscapes, and authentic slices of Hungarian life.
This is your personal cheat sheet to decoding MÁV-START, snagging ticket deals, navigating Budapest stations, and picking scenic routes!
Decoding the Rails
MÁV-START, train types (IC, RJ, Local, HÉV) explained.
Ticket Purchase
How to buy tickets, understand fares, and find discounts.
Onboard Experience
Comfort, Wi-Fi, dining, luggage, and accessibility.
Recommended Journeys
Top train trips to Balaton, Eger, Pécs, Debrecen, and scenic routes.
Budapest Stations
Navigating Keleti, Nyugati, Déli, and Kelenföld.
Train Travel FAQ
Your common questions about Hungarian trains answered.
Decoding the Hungarian Rails: Your Guide to MÁV and Train Types
Meet MÁV-START: The Heartbeat of Hungary's Railway Network
The Hungarian State Railways (Magyar Államvasutak - MÁV), with its passenger transport division MÁV-START Zrt., operates most train services. Founded in 1869, it has an extensive network radiating from Budapest. Official website: mavcsoport.hu/en.
From Speedy InterCitys to Scenic Local Lines: Understanding Your Train Options
The type of train impacts journey time, comfort, and cost. "Hybrid" trains combining different carriage standards exist.
1. InterCity (IC) & EuroCity (EC)
What: Faster trains connecting major Hungarian cities (IC) and international destinations (EC). Fewer stops.
Experience: Preferred for city-to-city. More comfortable, usually AC, some have restaurant cars ("Utasellátó").
Reservations: Mandatory on domestic IC and most international EC/EN (EuroNight). ~940-990 HUF ($2.60-$2.80 USD) online/machine.
Amenities: Power outlets, Wi-Fi (variable), 1st/2nd class.
Best for: Comfortable, quick travel between major cities; international journeys.
2. Railjet (RJ)
What: Modern, high-speed trains (Budapest-Győr, onwards to Vienna, Munich, Zürich). Often ÖBB cooperation.
Experience: Step up in comfort, speed. Economy, First, Business Class.
Reservations: Mandatory for all classes.
Amenities: Good Wi-Fi, power sockets, restaurant car, at-seat service (First/Business).
Best for: Fast, comfortable travel to Austria, Germany, Switzerland.
3. Regional & Local Trains (Személyvonat, Gyorsvonat/Sebesvonat)
Személyvonat (Stopping Train): Local, stops almost everywhere. Slow, older carriages, often 2nd class only.
Gyorsvonat/Sebesvonat (Fast/Semi-Fast): Fewer stops than Személyvonat. Medium-distance. Can be part of IC with basic, non-reserved carriages.
Experience: For smaller towns, rural areas. Basic comfort (older, no AC/power). Authentic local life, scenic. Windows often openable.
Reservations: Not required for Személyvonat. Optional/not available for Gyorsvonat.
Best for: Off-beat destinations, budget travel, local experience, scenic routes (speed not priority).
4. HÉV (Suburban Railway)
What: Budapest's suburban railway (operated by MÁV-HÉV). Connects to towns like Szentendre, Gödöllő.
Experience: Older rolling stock, retro feel. Ticketing: BKK tickets/passes valid within Budapest; "extension ticket" (kiegészítő jegy) needed beyond city limits.
Best for: Easy, inexpensive day trips from Budapest (Szentendre, Gödöllő).
Table 1: Hungarian Train Types at a Glance
| Train Type | Speed/Stops | Reservation | Amenities | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| InterCity (IC) / EuroCity (EC) | Faster, fewer stops | Mandatory | AC, Power, Wi-Fi (varies), Dining Car (some) | City-to-city, International |
| Railjet (RJ) | High-speed | Mandatory | AC, Good Wi-Fi, Power, Dining Car | To Austria, Germany, Switzerland |
| Személyvonat (Local) | Slow, most stops | Not required | Basic | Small towns, rural, scenic |
| Gyorsvonat (Fast/Semi-Fast) | Medium speed | Optional/None | Variable (basic or IC part) | Medium distances |
| HÉV (Suburban) | Moderate speed | N/A (BKK system) | Basic, older stock | Day trips from Budapest |
Nailing Your Ticket Purchase: Fares & Discounts
Hungarian train travel can be affordable. Prices vary; third-party sites often higher than MÁV's direct channels. 1 HUF ≈ 0.0028 USD.
Where & How to Buy MÁV Train Tickets:
1. Online – MÁV App & Elvira Website (jegy.mav.hu): Best prices, especially for domestic & discount fares. App tickets often include free seat reservation. Register for easier management. System improving but can be temperamental; check bank if payment fails before retrying.
2. At the Station – Ticket Vending Machines (TVMs) & Ticket Offices (Pénztár): TVMs at larger stations (multilingual). BKK machines sell some MÁV-HÉV tickets. Ticket offices for complex itineraries or if unsure; allow extra time for queues. English more likely at international windows in Budapest.
Cracking the Code on Prices & Discounts:
1. Standard Fares & Seat Reservations (Helyjegy): Base price by distance/train type. Seat reservations mandatory on IC, RJ, many EC/EN. Domestic IC 2nd class reservation: ~650-990 HUF ($1.80-$2.80 USD) online/app/machine. 1st class more.
2. "Okosjegy" (Smart Tickets): Discounted, train-specific, online/app purchase (at least day before). Includes seat reservation. Non-refundable if missed. Great for planned trips.
3. START Klub Card: For frequent travelers. 50% off standard 2nd class domestic. Cost: Under 26: ~14,900-24,900 HUF ($42-$70 USD) for 6/12 months. Over 26: ~19,900-34,900 HUF ($56-$98 USD) for 6/12 months. Sat: +1 person 50% off. RAILPLUS discounts.
4. Discounts for Young People, Seniors, Families (Post-March 2024 Reforms): Always verify latest MÁV rules.
- Children: Under 6 free (accompanied). 6-14: 50% off 2nd class. (Check if free under 14s rule active).
- Students (Hungarian/EEA card): Typically 50% off.
- Youth (14-25): Likely 50% off general (replaces older 33% weekend discount).
- Seniors (EU/EEA 65+): Free on 2nd class domestic (pay IC supplements/1st class).
- Family Discounts: Old system likely changed. Inquire or consider day tickets.
5. Vármegye24 & Magyarország24 (Day Passes - New!):
- Vármegye24 (County24): 999 HUF (~$2.80 USD). 24hr unlimited travel in one county (MÁV regional, Volánbusz, Pest HÉV). ICs usually excluded.
- Magyarország24 (Hungary24): 4999 HUF (~$14.00 USD). 24hr unlimited national travel (MÁV incl. ICs w/ reservation, Volánbusz, HÉV).
- Fantastic value for intensive exploration. No further discounts apply.
6. START Europa Tickets: Discounted international tickets to 15 countries (e.g., Slovakia from €6, Austria from €13). Limited availability, book far in advance online/app (direct trains) or international ticket offices.
Table 2: Key Hungarian Train Ticket Discounts & Passes
| Discount/Pass | Eligibility/Conditions | Price (Approx. HUF & USD) |
|---|---|---|
| Okosjegy | Train-specific, online advance book | Varies, significant discount |
| START Klub Card | Membership for 50% off 2nd class domestic | 14,900-34,900 HUF (~$42-98) |
| Vármegye24 | 24hr unlimited in one county | 999 HUF (~$2.80) |
| Magyarország24 | 24hr unlimited national travel | 4999 HUF (~$14.00) |
| Child Discount | Under 6 free; 6-14 50% off | 50% off (6-14) |
| Youth Discount (14-25) | Ages 14-25 | Likely 50% off |
| Senior Discount (EU/EEA 65+) | EU/EEA citizens 65+ | Free on 2nd class domestic (supplements apply) |
| START Europa | Discounted int'l tickets | From €6-€15+ (~$6.50-16.30+) |
All Aboard! What to Expect on Hungarian Trains
Experience varies by train type/route. Newer ICs, RJs, KISS/FLIRT EMUs offer good comfort (Wi-Fi, power, AC). Older regional/Gyorsvonat can be "vintage" (no AC/Wi-Fi).
Comfort Levels: First Class vs. Second Class
Second Class (Másodosztály): Standard, 2+2 seating. Basic on older trains, comfortable on modern IC/KISS.
First Class (Első osztály): More spacious (2+1 seating), quieter. Perks on some RJs/ICs (welcome drink, at-seat service). MÁV Premium Lounge at Keleti for eligible 1st/Business int'l passengers.
Staying Connected & Powered Up
Wi-Fi: Common on IC, EC, RJ, new KISS/FLIRT. Not on most older regional trains. Connectivity can be patchy.
Power Outlets: On most IC, EC, RJ, new regional stock. Less common on older trains. Carry a power bank!
Dining Onboard: Utasellátó & Station Snacks
Restaurant Cars (Étkezőkocsi - Utasellátó): On many domestic ICs (e.g., Balaton IC, Adria IC) and int'l ECs. Hot meals, snacks, drinks. Reasonable prices. Retro charm.
No Dining Car? Pack Your Own! Most regional/Gyorsvonat. Stations have bakeries/shops.
Bringing Your Bike or Extra Luggage
Bicycle Transport: Separate ticket/supplement needed. Dedicated spaces/carriages on some trains (esp. to tourist areas). Check conditions, space limited.
Luggage: Generous. Handle your own. Overhead racks, under seat, end-of-carriage areas. Lockers at major Budapest stations.
Accessibility for Passengers with Reduced Mobility
Request assistance (boarding/disembarking) 36hrs+ ahead: MÁV-DIREKT +36 (80) 630 053 or megrendeles@mav-start.hu. Accessible carriages/spaces on some trains. Wheelchairs free. Older stations/trains can be challenging.
My Top Recommended Train Journeys from Budapest
Approx. 2nd class single prices. Always check jegy.mav.hu for current info.
A. To Lake Balaton ("Hungarian Sea")
1. Siófok (South Shore): Lively beaches, nightlife. From Budapest Déli/Kelenföld. Modern FLIRT/KISS EMUs, some ICs. ~1h20m-2h30m. ~1900-2300 HUF ($5.30-$6.40). Book ahead in summer.
2. Balatonfüred (North Shore): Spa town, Tihany. From Budapest Déli/Kelenföld. "Katica" IR, "Vízipók" IR, "Kék Hullám" IC. ~1h40m-2h. ~2500-3500 HUF ($7-$9.80). Beautiful North Shore views.
3. Keszthely (West End): Festetics Palace, Hévíz nearby. From Budapest Déli/Kelenföld. "Balaton IC", "Helikon IR". ~2h30m-3h. ~3200-3700 HUF ($9-$10.40). Balaton IC often has dining car.
B. Eger – History, Baroque, Bull's Blood Wine
Castle, minaret, Szépasszony-völgy. From Budapest Keleti. InterRégió/express. ~1h45m-2h15m. ~3000-4000 HUF ($8-$11.20). Seat reservation usually not needed. Station 20-min walk from center.
C. Pécs – Mediterranean Vibes, Rich Culture
UNESCO site, Zsolnay Quarter. From Budapest Keleti. InterCity. ~2h30m-2h45m. ~4000-4600 HUF ($11.20-$12.90). Great weekend trip.
D. Debrecen – "Calvinist Rome", Eastern Hub
Great Church, Déri Museum, Hortobágy gateway. From Budapest Nyugati. InterCity/EuroCity. ~2h15m-2h50m. ~3800-4300 HUF ($10.60-$12.00). Admire Nyugati station!
E. Quick Day Trips via HÉV/Local Train
Szentendre: Artists' town. HÉV H5 from Batthyány tér. ~40m. BKK ticket + extension.
Gödöllő: Royal Palace. HÉV H8 from Örs vezér tere (~45-50m) or MÁV train from Keleti. BKK ticket + extension for HÉV.
Table 3: Popular Domestic Train Routes from Budapest
| Destination | Departing Station | Avg. Journey Time | Est. Price (HUF & USD) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Siófok | Déli/Kelenföld | 1h20m-2h30m | 1900-2300 (~$5.30-6.40) |
| Balatonfüred | Déli/Kelenföld | 1h40m-2h | 2500-3500 (~$7-9.80) |
| Keszthely | Déli/Kelenföld | 2h30m-3h | 3200-3700 (~$9-10.40) |
| Eger | Keleti | 1h45m-2h15m | 3000-4000 (~$8-11.20) |
| Pécs | Keleti | 2h30m-2h45m | 4000-4600 (~$11.20-12.90) |
| Debrecen | Nyugati | 2h15m-2h50m | 3800-4300 (~$10.60-12.00) |
| Szentendre | Batthyány tér (HÉV) | ~40m | BKK + extension |
| Gödöllő | Örs vezér tere (HÉV)/Keleti | ~45-50m (HÉV) | BKK + extension / MÁV ticket |
Scenic Sidetracks: Hungary's Most Picturesque Rail Routes
Danube Bend (Dunakanyar): Budapest Nyugati towards Szob. Glimpses of Danube, esp. Nagymaros-Zebegény.
Great Hungarian Plain (Alföld): Routes to Szeged or through Hortobágy. Expansive skies, Puszta landscape.
Lake Balaton Circle (DIY): Piece together journeys on North/South shores. North shore (Balatonfüred-Badacsony) very pretty.
Children's Railway (Gyermekvasút) - Buda Hills: Unique! Narrow-gauge, 11km, run by children (10-14, supervised). Széchenyihegy to Hűvösvölgy. ~40-50min. Affordable. Check gyermekvasut.hu.
Other Narrow-Gauge Forest Railways (Kisvasutak): Off-beat, scenic rides (e.g., near Nyíregyháza, Balatonfenyves, Kecskemét). Limited seasons.
Navigating Budapest's Grand Stations Like a Pro
All major stations well-connected by public transport (metro).
A. Budapest Keleti (Eastern): Pest side, east of center. M2, M4 metro. Main international gateway (Vienna, Munich, Prague, etc.). Domestic ICs (Pécs, Eger). Grand, historic, busy. Ticket offices, machines, lockers, food court, MÁV Premium Lounge (Platform 9).
B. Budapest Nyugati (Western): Pest side, north of center. M3 metro. Domestic (Debrecen, Szeged, Danube Bend). Some int'l (Prague, Berlin via Slovakia). Beautiful Eiffel Company iron/glass structure. Ticket offices/machines, some lockers. Westend mall adjacent.
C. Budapest Déli (Southern): Buda side, near Castle Hill. M2 metro terminus. Primarily domestic to Transdanubia, incl. most Lake Balaton trains. Modern, functional. Split-level can be confusing. Ticket offices/machines.
D. Budapest Kelenföld: Southwest Buda. M4 metro terminus. Major transport hub. Many Keleti/Déli trains stop here (int'l & domestic ICs). Convenient interchange. Modern, functional.
The Not-So-Rosy Side & Pro Travel Tips
The Occasional Hiccup – Delays & Disruptions:
Delays can happen (track work, technical issues). MÁV now offers 50% refund for delays >20 mins (check MÁV app for "delay insurance"). Check MÁVINFORM for real-time updates. Build buffer time for critical connections.
The "Vintage" Fleet – Character vs. Comfort:
MÁV acquiring new trains (KISS, FLIRT), but older stock on regional lines common (no AC, limited power). Main IC lines more likely modern. Embrace retro vibe on smaller lines!
Booking System Blues:
MÁV app/Elvira website essential for best prices but historically clunky (improving). Patience & double-checking helps.
My Pro Travel Tips for a Smooth Hungarian Train Adventure:
- Book Ahead: Especially for ICs, popular routes, holidays. Secures seat & Okosjegy.
- Understand Station Boards: Indulás (Departures, yellow), Érkezés (Arrivals, white). Vonatszám (train#), Hova (destination), Mikor (time), Vágány (platform). Announcements often Hungarian only. Watch for vágány módosítás (platform change).
- Validate Tickets (If Required): Mainly for paper BKK/HÉV tickets. MÁV e-tickets usually just need PDF/app display.
- Luggage Smarts: Overhead racks, designated areas. Keep valuables with you.
- Train Etiquette: Moderate noise, headphones for media. No feet on seats. Offer seats to elderly/pregnant. "Szabad ez a hely?" (Is this seat free?).
- Food & Drink: Pack snacks/water, especially for regional trains.
- Toilets (WC/Mosdó): Available on all trains, cleanliness varies. 1st class often cleaner.
- Safety: Generally very safe. Be aware of surroundings/belongings in crowded areas.
- Dealing with Delays: Check MÁVINFORM. Get "igazolás" (certificate) from station staff for missed MÁV-caused connections (allows travel on next service).
Frequently Asked Questions by Train Travelers
Q1: Is train travel in Hungary expensive? A: Generally no! Affordable, especially with discounts (Okosjegy, START Klub, day passes). E.g., Budapest-Siófok IC ~2000-3000 HUF ($5.60-$8.40).
Q2: Do I need to book Hungarian train tickets in advance? A: Highly recommended for IC, RJ, popular int'l trains (secures seat, best prices). Local/Gyorsvonat often buyable before travel, but app/online advance saves time.
Q3: Can I use Eurail/Interrail pass on MÁV trains? A: Yes, valid on MÁV-START. Still need to pay compulsory seat reservations for IC, RJ, EN (~990 HUF for domestic IC 2nd class via MÁV; higher via Eurail/Interrail platform).
Q4: Is English spoken at stations/by staff? A: More likely at major Budapest stations (esp. int'l counters). Less common onboard/smaller stations. Signage usually has German. Basic Hungarian/translation app helpful.
Q5: Main Budapest stations & where they go? A: Keleti (int'l, Eger, Pécs), Nyugati (Debrecen, Szeged, Danube Bend, some int'l), Déli (Lake Balaton, Transdanubia), Kelenföld (major interchange for many lines).
Q6: Are Hungarian trains generally on time? A: Reasonably punctual (esp. ICs). Delays can occur. MÁV offers 50% refund for delays >20 mins on many services.
Q7: Is there Wi-Fi on Hungarian trains? A: Increasingly yes (modern ICs, RJs, KISS/FLIRT). Not on most older regional trains.
Q8: Can I take my dog on a Hungarian train? A: Generally yes. Small pets in carrier free. Larger dogs need half-price/dog ticket, leash, muzzle. Allowed in 2nd class, not dining cars. Check MÁV's current pet policy.
Conclusion: All Aboard for Your Unforgettable Hungarian Rail Discovery!
Train travel in Hungary is more than transport; it's a chance to see the country's beauty unfold, meet locals, and create unique memories. From Budapest's grand stations to charming countryside routes, adventure awaits.
Despite occasional quirks, the experience is overwhelmingly positive, affordable, and extensive. It's a fantastic way to explore this multifaceted country.
Jó utat kívánok! (I wish you a good journey!)