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My friends were in town from Dublin, armed with a checklist of Budapest essentials: ruin bars, goulash, and a “thermal bath experience.” Their minds were set on Széchenyi, the grand yellow palace they’d seen all over Instagram. “No,” I told them, pulling up a photo of a turquoise-tiled hall under a stained-glass roof. “If you want to feel like you’re swimming inside a crumbling Art Nouveau masterpiece, we’re going to Gellért.”
As a Budapest local, I have a complicated relationship with Gellért Bath. It’s undeniably one of the most beautiful spas in the world, a living museum to the city’s golden age. But it’s also… complicated. It’s a place locals often avoid, citing crowds and a certain faded glory that sometimes borders on neglect. My friends were skeptical, having read reviews that swung wildly from “magical” to “filthy tourist trap.”
But here’s the crucial detail I shared with them, and now with you: this version of Gellért is on borrowed time. The entire complex is scheduled to close for a massive, multi-year renovation starting October 1, 2025. This isn’t just a visit; it’s a chance to see a piece of history in its authentic, magnificent, and admittedly imperfect state before it’s gone forever. So, we went. And this is the unfiltered story of what we found.
Key Takeaways
- Gellért Thermal Bath is an emblematic feature of Budapest’s spa culture, with a history dating back to 1918.
- The bath is nestled at the base of Gellért Hill and is known for its Art Nouveau design, including intricate tile work and stained glass windows.
- The bath offers a diverse array of thermal pools, including an outdoor pool with scenic views, which have healing properties for arthritis and circulation.
- In addition to thermal pools, Gellért Thermal Bath also offers amenities such as saunas and steam rooms, as well as a wave pool available in the summers.
First Impressions: Art Nouveau Grandeur and a Hint of Decay
Walking into the main hall of the Gellért is an experience in itself. You’re immediately enveloped in a cathedral of Art Nouveau design. Sunlight filters through a massive glass roof and stained-glass windows by the legendary Miksa Róth, illuminating a gallery of soaring columns and intricate mosaics. The air smells faintly of mineral water and history. The famous Zsolnay porcelain tiles, in iridescent shades of green and blue, cover almost every surface, a signature of the era when the bath was built between 1912 and 1918. It truly feels like stepping back in time.
But as you look closer, you notice the details that fuel the negative reviews. There’s a “stately, slightly dusty” feel to the place. In some corners, you might spot a missing tile or a patch of crumbling plaster. It’s not pristine. It’s a century-old building that has been in constant, heavy use, and it shows. This duality—breathtaking beauty and visible age—is the essence of the modern Gellért experience. For many visitors, the architecture isn’t just a backdrop; it’s the main event, which explains the clusters of people trying to capture the perfect photo, a phenomenon you’ll almost certainly encounter.
A Local’s Map to the Labyrinth: The Pools & Saunas
Navigating Gellért can feel like exploring a maze, a result of its piecemeal expansion over the decades. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll find inside.
The Thermal Halls
This is the heart of Gellért. Two main sections, originally separated by gender but now co-ed, house the iconic thermal pools. The walls are a stunning spectacle of azure and teal Zsolnay tiles, with ornate fountains and nautical statues. There are several pools with temperatures ranging from a balmy $35^{\circ}$C to a hot $40^{\circ}$C. The water, drawn from deep within Gellért Hill, is rich in calcium, magnesium, and other minerals, believed to soothe joint pain and other ailments. Soaking here, surrounded by such incredible artistry, is the quintessential Gellért experience.
The Main Swimming Pool
The central swimming pool looks like something out of ancient Rome, a grand hall with carved columns and a retractable roof for sunny days. This is a proper lap pool, and the staff enforces one rule strictly:
you must wear a swimming cap. This catches many tourists by surprise and is a non-negotiable rule. If you forget yours, you’ll have to buy one on-site.
The Outdoor Decks
Open seasonally (typically late spring to early autumn), the outdoor area is a different world. The main attraction is the leisure pool, which was once the world’s first artificial wave pool, built in 1927. While the legendary waves are a bit tamer these days, it’s still a fantastic place to cool off. There is also a smaller, warmer outdoor thermal pool, perfect for chillier days.
Saunas & Steam Rooms
Tucked away in the thermal sections are various steam rooms and Finnish saunas, with temperatures ranging from a manageable $50^{\circ}$C to a hardcore $80^{\circ}$C. It’s worth noting that official announcements sometimes mention temporary closures of certain steam chambers for maintenance, so it’s always wise to check on the day of your visit.
The Unvarnished Truth: An Honest Gellért Bath Review
So, is it a magical palace or a tourist trap? After our visit, my friends and I concluded it’s both. Here’s the breakdown.
The Sublime (Why You Should Go)
- Unparalleled Atmosphere: You will not find a more beautiful place to swim anywhere in the world. The Art Nouveau architecture is a feast for the senses, and the feeling of soaking in medicinal waters inside a living museum is genuinely unique.
- Genuinely Relaxing Waters: Despite the potential for crowds, the thermal water itself is incredibly relaxing. The warmth seeps into your bones, and you leave feeling rejuvenated and calm. It’s a perfect antidote to days spent walking around the city.
- A Piece of Living History: From its origins as a medieval hospital site to its use by the Ottoman Turks and its grand reopening in 1918, Gellért is steeped in history. You can feel the weight of those centuries, which adds a depth to the experience that modern spas can’t replicate.
The Subpar (What to Brace Yourself For)
- Cleanliness: This is the most common and valid complaint. While the pools themselves are clean, the changing areas can be another story. Some reviews describe the floors as dirty and the changing rooms as “beyond filthy”. We found them to be adequate on our weekday visit, but it’s clear that maintenance struggles to keep up with the sheer volume of visitors.
- The Staff: The service can be hit-or-miss. While some attendants inside are helpful, the staff at the main ticket counters are often described as unwelcoming and unhelpful, a sentiment we experienced firsthand. Don’t expect warm, fuzzy service.
- Crowds & Vibe: Gellért is famous, and it gets crowded, especially after 11 am and on weekends. The vibe can be less “serene spa” and more “busy public attraction,” with loud tourists and the aforementioned Instagram photoshoots disrupting the peace.
- The Price: A day ticket is not cheap, and the bath offers no discounts for students or seniors, unlike many other city spas. When you factor in the potential for overcrowding and the less-than-pristine facilities, some visitors understandably feel it’s overpriced—a “cash cow” that prioritizes ticket sales over visitor experience.
The Insider’s Playbook: How to Do Gellért Right
Despite the flaws, you can have a fantastic experience if you go in prepared. Here is my local’s strategy for conquering Gellért.
- Go Early on a Weekday: This is the single most important tip. Arrive right at the 9 am opening time. You’ll have the thermal pools almost to yourself for a solid hour or two before the crowds descend.
- Buy Tickets Online (Officially): Purchase your tickets directly from the Gellért Bath official website to avoid third-party markups. When you arrive, you’ll need to go to the information desk to exchange your QR code for a waterproof wristband that acts as your key.
- Upgrade to a Cabin: The price difference between a standard locker and a private cabin is minimal (about 1,000 Ft), and it’s worth every forint. A cabin is a small, private changing cubicle where you can leave all your belongings securely. It’s far more comfortable and private than the communal changing areas.
- Pack Your Own Kit: This will save you a significant amount of money and hassle. Towel rental is not available. You must bring your own or buy a pricey one there.
Gellért Bath Costs at a Glance (2025)
| Item | Weekday Price (HUF) | Weekend Price (HUF) | Price (USD approx.) | Notes |
| Daily Ticket (with Locker) | 11,000 Ft | 12,500 Ft | $30 – $34 | Base entry fee. |
| Cabin Upgrade | +1,000 Ft | +1,000 Ft | +$2.75 | Highly recommended for privacy. |
| Towel (Purchase) | 6,600 Ft | 6,600 Ft | ~$18 | Bring your own!. |
| Bathrobe (Purchase) | 12,000 Ft | 12,000 Ft | ~$33 | Not necessary, but bring your own if you want one. |
| Swim Cap (Purchase) | 2,000 Ft | 2,000 Ft | ~$5.50 | Only needed for the main swimming pool. |
| Slippers (Purchase) | 4,000 Ft | 4,000 Ft | ~$11 | Bring your own! Mandatory. |
Note: USD prices are approximate and based on an exchange rate of ~365 HUF/USD. Check current rates before your visit.
Beyond the Bath: A Foodie’s Tour of the Neighborhood
Once you’re thoroughly soaked and relaxed, the area around Gellért is a fantastic place to explore, especially along the vibrant Bartók Béla út.
- For a Truly Local Drink: My top insider tip is Pagony Kert. This quirky garden bar is set up in the abandoned children’s pools of the Gellért complex. You can literally sit in an empty tiled pool and sip on a good Czech beer. It’s beloved by locals and has a wonderfully unique, relaxed atmosphere.
- For Coffee & History: A short walk down the road is Hadik Kávéház, a legendary grand café that was once the meeting place for Hungary’s most famous writers. It has a beautifully restored classic section and a more modern, ruin-bar-style area called Szatyor. It’s the perfect place to soak up some literary history with a coffee and cake. For reservations, click here.
- For a Proper Meal: For excellent and authentic Balkan chargrilled meats in a casual setting, head to Grill Mánia. If you’re looking for something more upscale with one of the best views in the city, walk across the Liberty Bridge or a little way down the Buda riverbank to Rudas Bistro. Attached to the Rudas Baths, its terrace offers a stunning panorama of the Pest skyline. For their menu and reservations, click here.
After Your Soak: Exploring Gellért Hill and Beyond
Turn your spa day into a full day of exploration. The bath is perfectly located at the foot of Gellért Hill, surrounded by other key attractions.
- Climb Gellért Hill: Work off that cake with a 20-minute walk up Gellért Hill. The paths are well-maintained, and the reward is one of the best panoramic views of Budapest. At the top, you’ll find the Citadel (a 19th-century fortress) and the iconic Liberty Statue, a powerful symbol of the city. Note that the Citadel itself is undergoing extensive renovation until late 2025.
- Visit the Cave Church (Sziklatemplom): Just across from the bath’s entrance is the remarkable Cave Church, a working chapel built inside a natural grotto in the hill. Managed by the Pauline order, it has a dramatic history, including being sealed with a concrete wall by the Communists for decades. It’s a fascinating and atmospheric place to visit. For more information, click here.
- Cross the Liberty Bridge to the Great Market Hall: Walk across the beautiful green Liberty Bridge (Szabadság híd) directly to the Great Market Hall (Nagyvásárcsarnok). This cavernous, three-story market is a feast for the senses. The ground floor is packed with fresh produce, paprika, and salamis. The basement has pickles and fishmongers. The upper floor is the place to go for souvenirs and to try classic Hungarian street food like lángos or goulash at the food stalls. For more information, click here.
The Final Splash: Why You Must Go Before It’s Gone
So, what was the verdict from my friends? They loved it. They saw the flaws—the slightly chaotic changing rooms, the indifferent cashier—but they were completely enchanted by the beauty and the history. They understood that Gellért isn’t a sterile, modern spa. It’s a grand, crumbling palace you can swim in.
And that palace is about to close its doors for a long, long time. The renovation will undoubtedly fix the peeling paint and modernize the facilities. But it will also change it forever. The unique, time-worn character it has today will be gone.
If you are in Budapest before October 1, 2025, you have to go. Go with the right expectations, follow the insider’s playbook, and experience this flawed, magnificent piece of Budapest history for yourself. It’s an imperfect but unforgettable experience, and your chance to say goodbye is running out.
Your Questions Answered: Gellért Bath FAQ
Can children visit?
No. The bath has a strict policy that children under the age of 14 cannot visit.
Can I rent a towel?
No, towel rental is not available. You must bring your own or purchase one at the shop inside.
Is a swim cap mandatory?
Only for the main indoor swimming pool. It is not required for the thermal pools or the outdoor pools.
Can I take photos?
Yes, you can. There are no official rules against it, but be respectful of other guests’ privacy and avoid taking pictures of strangers.
What are the opening hours?
The general opening hours are 9 am to 7 pm daily. On Saturdays during the summer, hours are extended to 10 pm. Always check the official website for the most current times before you go.
Is there a discount for students/seniors?
No, Gellért Bath does not offer any discounted tickets for students, children, or seniors.
What’s the difference between a locker and a cabin?
A locker is a small, gym-style locker in a communal changing area.
A cabin is a small, private cubicle where you can change and lock your belongings.
Both are operated by your electronic wristband.
Can I get a refund if I leave early?
No. All tickets are for full-day entry and are non-refundable, regardless of how long you stay.
